A Q&A with Footwear Designer Charlotte Logeais

A Q&A with Footwear Designer Charlotte Logeais

Spotlight articles shine a light on designers and design materials we admire. Our founder and principal designer Rebeccah Pailes-Friedman has met many wonderful designers as an educator and career designer, and in our Spotlight interviews we ask them about their work and their design journey. In this interview we spoke with senior footwear designer and art director Charlotte Logeais. Charlotte has been a designer at Nike* for over two years. She began in the kids division and is currently a senior designer on the Women’s Lifestyle team. To her, design has always been about storytelling and problem solving. With a bachelor’s degree in industrial design from Pratt Institute and a Master’s degree from USC integrating design, business, and technology, she is well versed in the power of design as well as the power of style. Her experience as a professional ballet dancer gave her an athlete’s mindset, and she knows the value of performance footwear firsthand. We asked her about the challenges of footwear design, emerging trends in the footwear industry, and what makes a great shoe.

Portrait of shoe designer Charlotte Logeais.
Photo courtesy of Charlotte Logeais.

Q: What is inspiring you at the moment?

A: The biggest thing that’s inspiring me at the moment are fashion week runway shows. I love  seeing all the runway collections and how each designer creates their own world while still aligning with the history of the brand. I also enjoy seeing how the runway trickles down into street style. 

Q: Could you tell us about your role at Nike? How do you fit into your team there?

A: I work on the Nike kids design team. I’m technically on the performance side, but the cool thing about the kids team—especially for me, being newer to the footwear industry—is that you get to work on a broad range of products. I’ve been able to work on lifestyle shoes, like the Air Max 1, and on performance product as well, like running. It’s been great to get to work on such a wide range of products and it’s  helped me discover what I’m most passionate about. It’s been a great team to first start on at Nike. 

On the kids team you can push the boundaries a little bit more and really have fun with the design. Kids love bright colors, they love shoes that are playful and energetic. They get super excited about designs that are colorful and vibrant – it’s the first thing they notice about a shoe. 

In footwear, we work two years out. The process is kicked off by a brief and then the design team begins pulling inspiration and sketching. Various priorities in the product brief will inspire the visual direction of the design. If it’s a shoe that needs to emphasize comfort, it’s probably going to be a more rounded form language. If it needs to emphasize speed, maybe it’s more angular. Those notes help us determine the visual language. 

My favorite part of the product creation process is when the team comes together to sketch together on a new project. It’s the most creative time we have each season. We go find a room—the whole kids team—and we sketch together all day for a couple of weeks on the projects of the season. Then each project lead will take all of those sketches, identify the common threads, and bring it to the finish line. 

Once the design has been finalized, we send out a tech pack and get our first samples back to revise. 

Q: What drew you to footwear design? 

A: I kind of stumbled upon it, which is funny considering I grew up in Portland, Nike’s backyard. When I was at Pratt doing my undergrad degree, I applied to a footwear design internship at Adidas and interned with them for six months. I’d never really sketched sneakers before and fell in love with it during that internship. I’ve always loved fashion and sport, and did classical ballet for 10 years, culminating in one year professionally before going to Pratt. In ballet, your feet are your main tool, but pointe shoes  have barely evolved since the 19th century. So it’s rewarding for me to be able to bring innovation to athletes through footwear design.  

Q: Of the skills that you learned at Pratt, which do you find most valuable in your work?

A: Design thinking is a big one, and the design process overall. In footwear, we’re given a product brief by our marketing team. That brief tells us who the consumer is, what they’re looking for, and what the priorities of the product need to be. Then it’s the designer’s job to take that information and create a design. At Pratt it was definitely drilled into us that you get your brief, you find inspiration, you sketch, you refine your idea, you present it, and then begin the development process.  

Q: Footwear is an industry known for inspiring cult followings. What are your main challenges as a footwear designer?

A: Being on the kids team is definitely a design challenge for me. I’m not the target consumer, and I think it’s a big challenge to design for someone who isn’t you while still wanting to imbue  the project with your personal aesthetic and sensibility. It’s a good challenge: to keep the consumer at the center of the product while still being able to bring in my perspective. Whenever we get to interact directly with the consumer it helps us to understand what they want from a product. As the kids team covers toddler through grade school, it’s a pretty large range and we have to tailor each design to what the specific age group needs. 

Q: From a personal standpoint, what makes a great shoe? One you’re excited to wear? 

A: For me, comfort is a huge thing. I want a shoe that I can wear all day long and it will be super comfortable. Also, a shoe that feels versatile and can transition between working all day at the office to going out for a drink or going to a pilates class. Having a shoe that can move with you throughout the day and keep you comfortable the whole day is the biggest thing for me. Beyond that, I like having some sort of icon on the shoe, a hero aspect of the shoe.

The shoes that I’ve been wearing the most right now are the Vomero 5s, they’re an old school running shoe that have now pivoted into lifestyle. 

Q: How does sustainability factor into design and production at Nike? 

A:  Sustainability is definitely a big priority. As a designer, I partner with material and color designers, and materials are usually the biggest sustainability play. We’ll often make sure to prioritize materials that have a certain percentage of recycled content to try to reduce the amount of new materials being brought in and reuse as much as possible. That’s a big priority, especially in the kids business. I think we’re one of the teams that is making the biggest effort with that. The youngest consumer really does care about the environment and about what their future is going to look like, so sustainability is especially important for them, and knowing that we also care. 

Q: What do you see as interesting emerging trends in the footwear industry today?

A: Some of the biggest trends are new digital tools. AI has been a huge one, getting to input a prompt and have ideas generated for you, often ideas that you couldn’t imagine or that are just super out there. AI is a powerful initial ideation tool for brainstorming and creating concepts. Midjourney is one of my favorites right now, I actually discovered it while pursuing  my master’s at USC. 

In the past, I’d just go on Pinterest and scroll for aesthetically pleasing imagery to create a mood board, but now you can create your own imagery for that mood board through AI. It makes each mood board a bit more unique, and you have the control to create the imagery that you want to work with. Now I do a bit of a combination of both, searching for inspiration images as well as generating them myself. I still do love Pinterest though… and I have so many boards.

Q: Are there other areas of design you would like to explore?

A: I purchased an apartment last May and have spent the last seven months renovating it. It’s in a hundred-year-old loft building in downtown Portland and it was a blank canvas, so I did all the interior design for it, working with the contractor and everything. That’s been a journey! But, It’s super rewarding to see it come together. The results of interior design are so physical. Whatever decision you make, you’re going to see it in real life. That has so much impact. Interior design is something that I’ve discovered I really enjoy doing, and I would love to do more projects like this.

Being in footwear, I’ve realized that lines are so important to me, when things align and how they are offset from each other. I think I’m driving my contractor a little bit insane, making sure everything is perfectly aligned and organized. Design to me is seeing how forms have relationships and fit together.

Footwear designers look at trends and forecasting. We are tied to the fashion world, so part of the job is keeping up with that, seeing what people are drawn to, whether that’s in person or through social media. On the performance side, we follow the different sporting events. In the NBA, there’s an interesting intersection of style and sport every time the athletes walk down the tunnel onto the court. Following influencers on Instagram is another good way to keep up with global fashion trends. Maybe I like their style or the way that they combine different clothing items in unexpected ways. Following those creators helps me stay connected to fashion and innovation. When I lived in New York, I could just go for a walk and see amazing street style everywhere. Living in Portland that’s a bit more difficult, so I rely on travel and Instagram.

Q: What do you see for yourself as a designer and for your career going forward?

A: I feel like I’m just getting started in footwear but I see a long future for myself in the industry. I’d love to work on more adult performance product. 

I also value  having my own design pursuits on the side, like interior design. I used to paint a lot and that’s fallen off in the past couple of years. I think it’s important to find the time to keep yourself fulfilled, to have those external pursuits that don’t involve the pressure to perform as much as your day-to-day work. The renovation project has been taking all of my energy so I think, once that is finished, I can find time to paint again. I also used to meditate every morning and I haven’t done that in a while. For me, finding the time for mindfulness and sport helps me stay balanced.

*Views are her own and do not reflect those of her employer.

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A Q&A with Biomimicry Expert Ignacio Urbina Polo

A Q&A with Biomimicry Expert Ignacio Urbina Polo

Spotlight articles shine a light on designers and design materials we admire. Our founder and principal designer Rebeccah Pailes-Friedman has encountered many talented designers throughout her career, and in our Spotlight interviews we ask them about their work, their design journey, and what inspires them. In this interview we spoke with design leader and biomimicry expert Ignacio Urbina Polo. Ignacio has his own design firm in addition to being the current chair of industrial design at Pratt Institute and the chief editor of di-conexiones, a prominent Spanish industrial design platform. He is known for his innovative initiatives across design disciplines and for his international collaborations with design schools in Latin America, Europe, and Japan. We asked him about the power of biomimicry, the importance of communication in design, and the connection between being a designer and being a musician.

Photo courtesy of Ignacio Urbina Polo.

Q: You are known for your innovative biomimetic studios. Could you talk about how you became interested in biomimicry and nature-inspired design?

A:  When I did my undergraduate in Venezuela, there was a course called Bionics Applied to Design. At that time we understood that it was something related to nature, and we were trying to apply certain concepts from nature. It became more clear to me when I started working in the Brazilian Laboratory of Industrial Design  in Florianopolis, Brazil—a significant initiative launched in the early 1980s by German designer and theorist Gui Bonsiepe and a team of Brazilian designers—where I did a specialization with the Mexican designer Fabricio Vanden Broeck, an alumnus of Ecal in Switzerland. It became clear that getting interested in the complexities of nature can be useful for us as designers. I remember learning about notions of growth and notions of systems, notions of structure. I started to understand that for the projects we do—in the sense of designing objects and trying to create material outcomes—we need this expertise that is different from engineering. My school was pretty technological. We did math and physics and focused on structure and materials. But with bionics, because the term biomimicry came later, we began understanding how we can use nature to help us in our design work.

Q: How does a biomimetic approach impact the design process? 

A: When I finished my undergraduate and moved to Brazil to start working in the field of industrial design, the field concentrated on how objects communicate with people, how they function. It focused on the idea of structure and how we actually make pieces and parts and components. It focused on how we make those parts strong enough, and how those parts can be manufactured with machines. This was an engineering approach. The idea of aesthetics? We were barely touching it. There were just little flavors of it: This needs to be balanced, this needs to be in scale. We were focusing on how we construct. When the idea of bionics came along, there was a lot of thinking: What is the natural form about? How does it work? We were automatically more connected with beauty because beauty and structure: they came together. Without having to spend too much time, we were doing structure—trying to make components stable and working with the structure visually and physically—and the aesthetic was intrinsic to the natural building strategy, and came naturally out of the process. A bionic approach was solving all of the engineering problems and, at the same time, the aspects related to aesthetics.

Q: Could you share an example of a nature-inspired design or collaboration with nature that has inspired you? 

A: During my time at the Brazilian Laboratory of Industrial Design I had the opportunity to explore diverse areas. The LBDI’s key areas of focus included industry projects, design promotion, and educational programs. A highlight of my experience was attending the bionics course with Fabricio Vanden Broeck that I mentioned earlier. This course opened my eyes to the works of various designers, engineers, and architects, like Frei Otto and the renowned Italian designer Carmelo Di Bartolo, known for his nature-centric research and design.

One of Fabricio’s projects at Ecal was particularly intriguing. He focused on replicating the seed distribution and ejection mechanisms found in nature. His prototypes aimed to mimic the dispersal methods of airborne seeds. His goal was to apply these natural, random distribution patterns to the allocation of medicines and supplies in urban areas ravaged by earthquakes. This approach was not only about mimicking natural forms but also about applying complex concepts of natural growth and systems to solve pressing issues. This was especially relevant considering the significant damage caused by the 1985 earthquake in Mexico City. Such innovative thinking demonstrated how biomimetic design could extend beyond aesthetic interpretation and tackle real-world challenges effectively.

Q: You and, by extension, your website, di-conexiones, are an impressive design resource. You have an extensive social media presence as a design thought leader. What are some of the things you enjoy about communicating about design? How does this tie into your position as the chair of industrial design at Pratt?

A: I knew that there was something interesting and important about disseminating design and talking about design. The more I talked about design, the more it enriched my own work. I wanted to see what was out there, and if there was a better way to do this or that. Communicating about design is something we need to do all the time. The platform di-conexiones started as notes to myself. Fifteen years later, there are more than thirty people writing and it is something that I still feel is interesting. I have my professional practice. I have my job as an educator. I work in an institution. But di-conexiones is an independent website, meaning I don’t have to answer to anybody to write what I write. I haven’t made it a business, partly because I have other businesses to take care of but also because I want that freedom. At least for now, I need to maintain this independent way of talking about design – that is why I enjoy it. It has to be for myself and for the community. 

I always have the idea, I need to write about this. I do free research all the time because I don’t have to deal with anybody, and this creates a space that is more interesting to research my own ideas. I think we need that for what we do.

Q: You’re also a musician, do you see a cross-over between musical improvisation and design ideation?

A: There are many parallels we can make between music and design, though they are very different as well. The first difference is that we perceive them with a different sense. So the acoustic space is the territory of musicians and, as designers, we don’t often work within the acoustic space. Another big difference is that music is a performance art, meaning you play and then you hear it.  As designers we create before you see the outcome. We create and then we see. Where I see connections between music and design is in the design process.

I tell my students that there are three aspects that are interesting to consider in design, and the same three aspects are important to a musician. When we learn to play an instrument, there are three elements that we need to figure out. The first is physicality, meaning that I need to understand the physical instrument; how to play the notes, the technique. We need to develop that technique. We need to get good because the better we are at the instrument, the more we can hear the nuances of the sound. It is the same in design. The more we do models, the more we draw: the more we see. 

The second part is the content of the music, the form. The music tells you, This is rock, this is  jazz. Music, because it is a language that you can write, you can learn. The music has a structure that you can play, there are typologies. I can play rock because the rock has a standard form that I can recognize. The more I study the history of music, the more genres I can recognize. We can think of design in the same way. What is the typology? What is the form, the history of the art? All of those things are within the content. It can take a whole career to understand these things. So one part is the instrument, the technique, the second part is the content, and the third part is the sensibility to get involved. 

If you’re a good musician, you can play the instrument and you know how to play certain kinds of music, but you have to develop a sensibility to create music that nobody else can. The moment you play, there needs to be an energy—a sensibility—that makes you not only a good technician and a good musician but also a good performer, who can communicate with the music. That’s why we connect with certain musicians and we don’t connect with others. 

At Pratt we have a 3D methodology that teaches how to observe and create the phenomenon of form and how to talk about that. That is close to what we do with music. We work with eyes and hands in design and with hearing in music, but we are also trying to communicate and create a connection. This is a special thing you need to work on that is the third part of the design process as well as the music process.

For example, we can talk about the song of a birthday party; it has three notes and the form is very simple. We can also talk about a Beethoven suite that has many parts, and each part has a momentum. Both of these demonstrate the three aspects I talked about; How do you play it? What are the notes? What is the feeling? In product design it is the same. You can design a flower vase that is very simple. It can be one material, one gesture. Or you can design a car that has 7,000 pieces. The designs still need to answer the same questions. 

Because design is different from music, the response happens later. There is a timing gap. When people actually get the product is when you confirm the response. With music, you feel it right away. The way you play music, that will be the way you design. This is not mathematical, it’s more qualitative, and this is something that you learn. It could be thought of as a designer’s voice but I could even go back to more basic things. Part of what you contribute as a designer is not even conscious. The big musicians are not saying, I’m good. They just do their thing. It’s the same with good designers. They just do it. 

This is part of why it’s difficult for me to talk about innovation. Every time we talk about innovation, it seems like we are saying that we are going to innovate on purpose. In reality, innovations often happen later, when somebody recognizes, Oh, there is an innovation there. But you weren’t working on that. If you do good work, there may be an innovation in there somewhere. As designers, we are close to innovation because we have that thing that innovates. 

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Designer as Artist

Exploring the Intersection of Design, Craft, and Art

Design is often thought of as a practical discipline, focused on creating functional objects or systems. However, design can also be seen as a form of art, with designers as artists who use their skills and creativity to produce beautiful and meaningful objects. The art of making, whether it be through design or craft, has evolved over time. Designers and makers have constantly sought to create aesthetically pleasing and functional pieces, and the question of whether a piece of design or craft needs to be functional remains a topic of debate. This article explores the relationship between design and craft, Designer as Artist, the role of aesthetics in both fields, and the differences between handcrafted and mass-produced pieces.

Craft and design have a long history of overlap and collaboration. Many areas of design, such as jewelry, furniture, ceramics, and fashion, are also considered crafts. The difference between craft and design lies in the production process. Craft emphasizes the action of creating something with your hands, using historic techniques and a mastery of materials. Design, on the other hand, often involves the use of technology, mass production, and a focus on functionality.

Design and Art

The boundaries between design and art have blurred over time, leading to the emergence of the concept of “designer as artist”. Many designers are motivated and inspired by materials, and find joy in mastering various mediums. For example, the furniture designs of Charles and Ray Eames are often considered works of art due to their innovative use of materials and attention to detail.

Another example of a designer as an artist could be the fashion designer Alexander McQueen. McQueen’s runway shows were known for their elaborate and theatrical presentations that often incorporated sculpture, performance art, and other elements beyond just the clothing. His designs were not only functional but also conceptual and thought-provoking, pushing the boundaries of what could be considered traditional fashion design.

Aesthetics play a significant role in the relationship between design and craft. The intricacy and attention to detail that goes into creating furniture or ceramics can be appreciated when examining them. Aesthetics are crucial in communicating the intended message of the piece in both design and craft. Although functionality is often a central focus of design, it is not always necessary for a piece to be considered good design. Some designs are created purely for their aesthetic value or to make a statement or evoke an emotional response. The same can be said for craft, where many are functional, but some are purely decorative or conceptual. For example, the glass sculptures of Dale Chihuly are considered works of art for their beauty and innovative use of color, despite not having a specific functional purpose.

Craft as a Preconceived Notion

The term “craft” often carries a negative connotation, as it is associated with being amateurish or not up to par with professional design. However, this is not always the case. The act of creating something with one’s hands can result in beautiful and functional pieces. Jewelry, furniture, ceramics, and fashion all fall under the category of craft.

While the method of fabrication is a key difference between craft and design, it’s important to note that there is often overlap between these two fields. While craft pieces are typically one-of-a-kind and made by hand, there are many designers who incorporate handcrafted techniques into their work, resulting in pieces that are both functional and aesthetically pleasing. Similarly, while design pieces are often mass-produced, there are many designers who create limited-edition or one-of-a-kind pieces that blur the line between design and craft.

One example of a designer who blurs the line between design and craft is the fashion designer Rei Kawakubo. Kawakubo’s work with her label Comme des Garçons is often described as avant-garde, with pieces that challenge traditional notions of fashion and design. Many of her pieces are handcrafted, with a focus on the techniques and materials used to create them. While her pieces are often mass-produced, there is a strong emphasis on craftsmanship and attention to detail.

Another example of the intersection of craft and design is the work of the lighting designer Lindsey Adelman. Adelman’s pieces are all handcrafted in her New York studio, with a focus on the techniques and materials used in their creation. While her pieces are often produced in limited editions, there is a strong emphasis on the craftsmanship and attention to detail that goes into each piece.

The Future of Craft

There is a growing concern that craft is a threatened field. As technology continues to advance and mass production becomes the norm, the art of handmade objects is in danger of being lost. However, there are still many people who are interested in learning craft skills, and there are a variety of ways in which they can do so. While academic classes such as those offered by Pratt Institute, can be a great resource, not everyone has access to them. Many people learn craft skills from family members, friends, or online tutorials.

Despite the challenges facing the craft industry, there is still a bright future for handmade objects. Creative marketplaces, craft communities, studio rentals, and shared maker spaces are all helping to promote and preserve the art of craft. Additionally, there is a growing appreciation for the value of handmade objects, and designers and consumers alike are recognizing the unique beauty and quality that comes from a handcrafted piece.

Design and Craft: Learning from Each Other

Finally, it is important to recognize the ways in which design and craft can learn from each other. Hands-on making is an influential process that can make better designers, and designers who understand craft techniques can create more thoughtful and meaningful designs. One example of this is the success of the ceramics brand Franca, which emphasizes the importance of craftsmanship, design, and artistry in its products.

The relationship between design and craft is complex, with both fields valuing aesthetics and functionality. While craft is often seen as a preconceived notion, it can be a valuable skill that should be celebrated. As the creative industry evolves, the intersection of design and craft will continue to be a source of inspiration and innovation.

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Design News N.024

Design News is your tiny dose of design, technology and other important news, curated monthly by Interwoven Design. In this series we share the latest on our favorite topics, including women in design, technology and architecture, and sustainable design. In this issue: a tribute to women in the fields of design, science, and technology, a Nigerian architect and designer to watch (and follow!), a historic moment in plastic policy, and a cute new audio device with a retro design that takes us back to the 80s.

If/Then she can!

Life-sized orange 3D-printed statues of women stand on a lawn
These life-sized 3D-printed statues depict women who have excelled in STEM fields. Photo credit: IF/THEN®, courtesy of the Smithsonian Institute.

The Smithsonian will commemorate Women’s History Month in March by displaying 120 life-sized neon orange statues depicting women who have excelled in the fields of science and technology. Over 3 million visitors have experienced the installations since they started popping up in 2020, and the IF/THEN website features a biography of each woman showcased in the piece. The 3D-printed statues are the largest 3D printed project of its kind, and will be displayed in the museum’s gardens and in select museums in the Smithsonian network from March 5th to March 27th.

via Smithsonian Institute

Oshinowo x Sharjah Architecture Triennial

Portrait of Tosin Oshinowo in her office
Architect Tosin Oshinowo will curate the 2023 Sharjah Architecture Triennial. Photo by Spark Creative courtesy of cmDesign Atelier.

Nigerian architect and designer Tosin Oshinowo has been appointed to curate the 2023 Sharjah Architecture Triennial. The aim of the Triennial is to highlight architecture across western Asia, southern Asia and the African continent, and this second edition will focus on “sustainable architecture, urbanism and infrastructure.” Oshinowo, a socially conscious voice in the field, intends to offer a new perspective on sustainable architecture with an emphasis on adaptability. She is the principal designer at the Lagos-based architectural firm cmDesign Atelier, a firm known for socially and environmentally responsive projects throughout Nigeria and the African Continent. She describes herself as an “Architect, Designer, Curator, Creative Entrepreneur, History-Junkie & Mummy!” on her instagram profile, an account well worth following for those interested in art, fashion, architecture, and design.

via Dezeen

Plastic pollution from source to sea

colorful plastic utensils on a white background
Leaders from 175 countries will create the first UN treaty to regulate plastic production and pollution. Photography by Heiko Prigge.

World leaders from 175 countries have agreed to draw up a legally binding UN treaty that will regulate plastic production and pollution on an international scale for the first time. Passed at the UN Environment Assembly in Kenya, the resolution calls for participating nations to determine a set of universal rules and timed targets to work toward the end of plastic waste.

via Dezeen

Playful tech device for kids

Yoto Mini audio device with data cards
Pentagram’s Yoto Mini audio device is designed for children but appeals to all ages. Photo courtesy of Yoto.

The Yoto Mini is a screen-free audio device with retro styling that evokes classic 80s designs. The form is a small white box with cheerful red knobs and a card slot on the top where kids insert a card of their choice to make a music selection. The cards themselves have a clean, jaunty styling that uses bold color and charming illustrations to engage the user. The playful system, designed by Pentagram, includes hundreds of diverse audio options for kids to explore, bringing an analog interaction back to what can so easily be screen-obsessed lives.

via Designboom

Pratt presents: Woman Made

Pratt Presents: Woman Made
This special panel will feature designers from Phaidon’s Woman Made: Great Women Designers. Image credit: Pratt Institute.

This special panel discussion will feature distinguished designers included in Phaidon’s recently published book Woman Made: Great Women Designers. The text provides a comprehensive overview of some of the most influential and iconic designs created by women. The talk is free and open to the public, and a video recording will be available after the event.

via Pratt Institute

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